John Biggar.com : Climbing Instructor and Guidebook Author

 the hard start on The Chancer.

Introduction   Point of the Cleugh is a small area of granite climbs on the coast south of Stranraer. There is not much climbing here, but these routes can easily be combined with some climbing at Crammag Head, which lies just 10-15 minutes walk to the south. The crags are normally completely on dry land, but will be affected by very high seas at high tide.

Access  To get here follow the A77 or A75 towards Stranraer then the A716 down the east shore of the Rhinns to Drummore village. From here follow the B7041 then an unnamed minor road westwards to Portencorkrie Bay. A wee track runs down to the shore between Knockenculie and Barncorckrie farms. Use this to access the shore, then walk south for 10-15 minutes to reach the crags.

Guidebook   For a definitive list of all the climbs here and on the more extensive areas nearby like Crammag Head and Laggantalluch Head, see the SMC published Lowland Outcrops guidebook.

Dangers  This is a granite sea cliff with generally good rock. Despite all the cracks you can see from below, protection is very hard to find on some routes. This very open stretch of coast will be hazardous in big seas and the area is very open to rapid weather changes, although the routes are just above the high tide line.

About 100m north of the slab a few more climbs have been recorded on a 10m high granite block.

The title picture at the top of the page shows the hard start on The Chancer, given 4c in the guidebook, 5a on this website and possibly as hard as 5b...


 

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