This page gives some ideas for choosing a suitable rock climbing venue in
Dumfries and Galloway. The picture above was taken at
Corwar in 2020.
|
THE BEST |
OK |
THE WORST |
Evening Crags and Socialising |
Clifton |
Thirlstane,
Meikle Ross
(certain areas), Corwar (can be bad midges),
Garheugh,
Portobello,
Craignarget |
Dungeon of Buchan, Tauchers, |
Short Walk |
Thirlstane,
Clifton,
The Lookout,
Garheugh,
Craigdews, |
Meikle Ross,
Crammag,
Portobello,
Craigencallie,
Laggantalluch,
Clints of
Dromore, Corwar,
Point of the Cleugh |
Craignaw,
Craiglee,
Dungeon of Buchan,
Cairnsmore of Fleet, Tauchers |
Midgy Conditions |
Any sea cliff such
as:- Meikle Ross,
Laggantalluch,
Garheugh,
Crammag,
Point of the Cleugh ,
Portobello |
Clifton
(especially daytime)
Craignarget |
Corwar, Tauchers,
Craigencallie,
Loch Grannoch,
Craigdews |
Adventurous
|
Dungeon of Buchan,
Clints
of the Spout,
Craignaw Slabs, Laggantalluch,
Meikle Ross,
Burrow Head, (very!), Mull of Galloway
(very!) |
Crammag,
Craigencallie,
Snibe Hill,
Craignaw |
Thirlstane (except
the Cave Route),
Garheugh |
Solid Rock & Clean Routes
|
Craignaw,
Craiglee,
Corwar,
Craignarget,
Crammag
(most areas) |
Clifton,
Laggantalluch,
Dungeon of Buchan,
Craighoar,
Snibe Hill,
Point of the Cleugh,
Money
Head,
Point of the Cleugh, |
Meikle Ross
(though some areas are OK), Burrow Head, Monreith,
Portobello |
|
|
THE BEST |
OK |
THE WORST |
Reliable Gear Placements |
Clifton |
Snibe Hill, Laggantalluch
(but Stingray is bold),
Crammag,
Meikle Ross,
Dungeon of Buchan, |
Thirlstane,
Craignaw Slabs,
Clints of
Dromore,
Clints
of the Spout, Lions Heid, |
Good Easy Grade Routes
|
Clints of
Dromore, Crammag
(Lighthouse Walls & Kittiwake Zawn),
Point of the Cleugh,
Snibe Hill, |
Clifton,
Loch Grannoch,
Dungeon of Buchan,
Craigdews,
Craignarget,
Money
Head |
Kiln o the
Fuffock, Larbrax |
Beginners
|
Clifton
(but hard grades),
Crammag (Lighthouse
Walls only),
Clints of
Dromore (selected routes)
Point of the Cleugh |
Thirlstane (good but
very
limited),
Loch Grannoch
(but a long walk),
Portobello (Primrose Slab & Piano Keys only),
Craignarget (but a long walk) |
Most of the sea
cliffs. |
Bouldering
|
|
Thirlstane,
Garheugh,
Clifton,
Craignaw,
Monreith, Snibe Hill,
Cat Craig |
Most of the sea
cliffs. |
Barbecues &
Picnics
|
Thirlstane,
Portobello, Crammag
(Lighthouse Walls), |
The Lookout, |
|
Good for Damp or Showery
Conditions
|
Clifton,
Thirlstane, Crammag,
Point of the Cleugh |
Meikle Ross,
Garheugh,
Portobello, |
Tauchers,
Craigencallie,
The Fleshmarket,
Cairnsmore of Fleet, |
Quick Drying
|
Clifton,
Thirlstane,
Crammag |
Meikle Ross,
Garheugh,
Point of the Cleugh Portobello, Laggantalluch,
Craignaw,
Snibe Hill,
Craignarget |
Tauchers,
Craigencallie,
The Fleshmarket,
Dungeon of Buchan,
Cairnsmore of Fleet,
Craignaw Slabs, |
Winter Sun & Warmth
|
Craigdews,
Clifton
(afternoons only),
Clints of
Dromore,
Crammag (some
areas),
Portobello, |
Snibe Hill,
Craignarget (afternoons only) |
|
|
|
THE BEST |
OK |
THE WORST |
The table below gives the approximate time
needed for the "majority of good routes" on a crag to dry after several days of
rain. Most crags will dry a lot quicker after just a brief shower, of course,
and the table is only approximate because some routes at some crags may take
much longer to dry. This is based on my opinions and experience, but should at
least give a relatively reliable "graded list" of drying speeds!
| |
OUTCROPS |
SEACLIFFS |
MOUNTAIN CRAGS |
| Dry within hours |
Clifton (some areas) |
Crammag & Meikle Ross (some areas) |
|
| Dry next day |
Clifton, Thirlstane, The Lookout |
Crammag, Meikle Ross |
Clints of Dromore |
| Dry after one full rain free day |
Lions Heid, Craighoar |
Laggantalluch, Portobello, Mull of Galloway |
Craignaw - Memorial Crag, Loch Grannoch |
| 3 to 4 days to dry |
Corwar |
|
Dungeon Hill, Criagdews, Craigencallie |
| One week or more |
|
|
Craignaw Slabs, Fleshmarket, Tauchers |
